temper

It’s always swinging at this Bauhaus-inspired dining room and music lounge. The plates that fly out the kitchen are soulful and uncomplicated, like the fried chicken dusted with spicy chilli-lime powder, or the fun-to-eat French Dip Sandwich – Tajima roast beef and gouda cheese, accompanied by beef broth for dipping. Seafood here is a standout. The Petit Platter, designed for two, is a bounty of ocean-fresh oysters, mussels, dungeness crab and crudo. And the turbot, silky under a crackling skin, shows the kitchen’s deft hand.

The wine programme shines under the stewardship of 67 Pall Mall’s former head sommelier Roberto Duran. The wine director often delights in introducing unexpected bottles from over 1,200 labels housed in the custom-built cellar, such as a Mavrotragano from Greek winery Vassaltis or the excellent Champagne Denis Salomon. All of it unfolds to fluid, genre-spanning music curated by industry veteran Joshua Pillai.