Beijing

The Beijing of merely forty years ago was glum, grey and mostly shut. Its rapid transformation into a modern metropolis featuring extravagant creations of fashionable foreign architects has inevitably seen much of its historic heart razed and rebuilt. But clusters of ancient courtyard houses still exist in mazes of alleys called hutong, their layout little changed since the 14th century Mongol Yuan dynasty. And the great monuments of the Ming era, such as what is now the maze-like Palace Museum and the sections of brick and stone-clad Great Wall that caterpillar their way over neighbouring high ground, all ensure that the city remains not only China’s political capital, but its capital of culture, too.

When to go
Beijing’s climate is best from end-March to mid-April, save for the odd sandstorm, and from mid-September to end-October. At either end of the Spring Festival, usually around January or February, tickets in and out may be unobtainable, but otherwise during the holiday the city can be relatively quiet as millions of residents return to their home villages, and others travel overseas. The week-long National Day period around 1 October is often busier, with accommodation at a premium.

How to get around
Beijing’s traffic jams are the stuff of legend, and its 27 subway lines, although very busy during commuting hours, are the answer to getting around. First arrange your choice of destinations in order of priority, and visit the most important first along with any others within walking distance. Most sights, ticketed or not, will want to see your passport, and some require booking online in advance – ask your concierge for help. Airport-style security checks are common.